Cut tube straight and remove any burrs. Slip a standard crimp ring over the tube and then slip the tube over the valve. The tube should slide all the way up to the “shoulder” of the valve where it cannot go any further. Slide the crimp ring up so it is between 1/8” and 1/4” from the end of the pipe. Pliers may be helpful. Position a calibrated crimp tool over the ring and compress it tightly. Turn on water and check for leaks.

•  Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
•  Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.

Threaded brass valves with IPS (tapered) threads require thread sealant tape (PTFE) or pipe thread compound (paste). Hose threads (straight) do not require any sealant. Turn on water and check for leaks.

• Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
• Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.

Do not disassemble the valve. Clean all the surfaces to be soldered with a fine sand cloth or steel wire brush to remove all traces of dirt and oil. Use a thin film of flux to cover the surfaces. Use flux sparingly, but be sure to cover the entire surface. Always use lead-free solder for plumbing parts.

Open the valve fully and carefully to apply only as much heat as is needed to melt the solder. If you are using MAPP gas then you should exercise additional caution as it will be hotter than propane. It is a good idea to make sure the flame only contacts the ends of the valve and not the center section, where the soft Teflon seals could be damaged. Apply heat to the tubing first and transfer as much heat as possible to the valve through the tubing to avoid overheating the valve.

When the temperature of the parts is hot enough to melt the solder, remove the flame. Solder is then applied to the joint and will automatically fill the joint through capillary action. Use about a 1/2” length of solder for a 1/2” valve, 3/4” length of solder for a 3/4” valve, etc. Using too much solder will make a weak joint.

Turn on water and check for leaks.

•  Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
•  Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.

Open the valve. Cut pipe cleanly at a 90-degree angle and ensure there no chips or indentations on the pipe. Clean, de-burr and prepare the pipe according to solvent instructions. Dry fit all components first. Be sure to use a primer and solvent combination that matches the pipe and valve material (PVC, CPVC, PP, etc). Twist the pipe ¼ turn as you insert it into the valve to ensure uniform solvent coverage. Observe the minimum cure time as directed by the solvent manufacturer, then turn on water and check for leaks.

•  Do not use lubricants of any kind.
•  Do not allow primer or solvent to contact the internal working parts of the valve (disc, ball, seats, etc.)
• Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
• Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.

Use 2-3 wraps of PTFE tape or thread sealant compatible with the plastic material (PVC, CPVC, PP, etc). Hand tighten and then use a strap wrench if necessary to turn and additional ½ revolution.

•  Never use pliers or a pipe wrench on a plastic connection.
•  Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
•  Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.

For use with Copper, CPVC, and PEX (PUSH-FIT connections are not suitable for PEX-AL-PEX or PEX tubing with an oxygen barrier) pipe. Designed for use with water or air at 200 psi non-shock.
Installation:

1. Cut pipe square and remove all burrs. In order to make a reliable seal the tube must be free of scratches and imperfections.
2. Do not remove plastic insert bushing.
3. Push pipe fully into fitting and then rotate to check connection and adjust handle position.
4. Test for leaks.
5. Restrain and support pipe on both sides of fitting to prevent movement and stress on the connection.

Removal:

Viper-Lok fittings can be removed by pressing the plastic removal tool against the plastic end-piece to release the pipe.

•  Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
•  Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.

Make sure pipe end is free from deformities and blemishes. Insert pipe fully into compression end. Tighten the compression nut by hand, then an additional ¼ turn with a wrench (brass fittings) or strap wrench (plastic fittings). Turn on water and check for leaks.

•  DO NOT use pliers or a pipe wrench on compression nuts.
•  Restrain pipe and ensure there is no stress, shearing, or pulling on the valve. Support the valve and protect from pipe movement.
•  Flush system before cycling valve to remove debris that could damage internal components.